I think that the heading is clear enough, so, let´s s straight to the e-Board.
No tools: This is just “half-true” you will need solder, driller, screw.
Low budget: it means less than 300$.
What you can get: 1200w e-Board, with 5 miles (8km) range. Up to 25km-hour, Splashproof, with regenerative brakes. A professional e-board, for a low budget.
Before to proceed, Very basic notions of “E-Board world”
One E-Board is made for 4 main parts.
1-Deck. It is just a deck, could be a longboard deck, cruise board deck (my case), or any other deck
2- Motor. The motor impulses the e-Board could be an external motor which impulses the wheel through to a belt or a motor hub. Without tools, the easiest way to do an e-Board is getting a motor HUB, which means that the wheels are already the motor.
3- ESC. The ESC connects the motor with the batteries and the remote, is “the electronic heart” of the longboard.
4- Batteries, (And battery charger). The Batteries are the power supplier, no explanation required. You can choose a big range of batteries, the recommended batteries for this propose are LiPo batteries. And if you don’t have one, a LiPo smart charger is also required.
Step 1 – BUYING
Now I am going to show you what I bought, that does means that you have to buy the same, it just guidance examples.
As I said motor HUB is the most recommended choice, if you are over 60Kg you better buy a double motor, minimum 300W each.
Here the one I bought, double motor 600W each.
The ESC must support double motor if you choose double motor and the same output power of the motor. It will be easier if it includes the remote, much easier.
Below my choice.
As I said, LiPo batteries are the better choice. What really matters here is the next two points:
-Over 4000mAh. This is related to the battery capacity. Less than 4000mAh will reduce so much operation range and will make the e-board slightly unuseful.
-The voltage must match with the ESC voltage. So, if the ESC works between 24/36v, in LiPo batteries it is traduced in two batteries connected in serial. Each battery must be 4s or 5s (14.8v – 18.5v)
You can also choose different batteries. It will be okay as far as you can get a correct charger for the batteries.
I used the deck of an Osprey cruise board that I already had. But this is the most personal choice. I choose a short cruise board is more portable than a long one, but be careful, it is also more dangerous (less stable) and more difficult to ride it.
There is plenty of enclosure online. I choose this one because it is provided with a foam that allows perfect contact and adjustment with the deck and because the rate design and price, is great.
Once the batteries are inside the box, you will need “extend” the connector to the outside box to charge them without disassembly the enclosure every time that you run out battery. I choose IPX7 connector, because in UK rains a lot, and ride over a wet pavement is the most common scenario. Whatever that you will choose as connector it must support at least 4 amperes, which is the current that will go through the connector when the batteries are charging.
Wires and connectors.
In order to connect two batteries in series and charge it from the connector, we will need some wires and connectors. To be concrete you will need
-2x XT60 male connectors
-1x XT60 female connector
-2x JST-XH Lipo4s (or 5s depending on the batteries you have chosen) extender.
– 2 meters of 14AWG cable.
Now, the hardest part, what don’t be afraid, it is not difficult at all.
3 wires go outside each motor, and the ESC has 3 wires for each motor supported. Just connect them together. IF one wheel is spinning in the wrong turn, just swap the connection of two of these wires, and the motor will change the spinning direction.
The next image shows, the explanation adobe.
How to connect the batteries with the ESC and with the external connector.
Because it is difficult to explain, and one image worth more than one hundred words. The attached diagram shows perfectly how to connect everything.
Blue: It is already part of the components.
Red: It is what you have to do. It mainly connects the batteries in series and makes a bridge to the external IPx7 connector.
Green: It is a bridge between the IPx7 connector and the smart charger.
Don’t be afraid, it is just some connectors and solder, but it is not complicated.
And now, the last thing that you have to do is assembly altogether and enjoy it!
Battery – 28€ x2
Smart charger – 25€
Wires and XT and JST connectors- 5€